I feel the need to address a few quick rules on how to look swell in trousers. I wish to hearken back to the classic days of old Hollywood, when men know how to dress appropriately on and off-screen. Those rule still apply today, that is if don’t you want to look like a little kid wearing your fathers clothes.
First off I feel like I should address blue jeans, even thought this post isn’t really about them, they deserve mention. Blue jeans were invented them as a work pant, don’t forget this. Now, today they are more than just for work and I appreciate that. They are easy to wear and take care of, they usually look good, there is plenty of variety, and they are comfortable. There are still some important things to remember though.
- They are not now, nor will they ever be a substitute for dress pants. They do look great with a cool vest or jacket, but don’t walk into an important interview or a wedding like that.
- Buy the proper size, fit means everything. Loose and baggy looks sloppy, and too short, well you know.
- Find a good cut. There are a myriad of different fits and cuts available from every retailer, so try a few on and decide what works for you. Not every cut looks good on every guy; just like women have their “mom jeans” we have some unflattering styles too. Get help if you need.
- Most importantly, unless you were at one time, or currently are incarcerated, and are the property of another man through a transaction involving a quantity of cartons of squares. Your underwear should never be showing.
Now that we have that out of the way, there are a few more things to consider to properly wear trousers. It seems silly, but way too many guys do not know how to wear pants that look good, so here is some help
- The number one rule is: Find a Tailor; even if your pants fit “off the shelf” you want someone who knows how to fix a torn seam, hem a leg, or take them in.
- Secondly, they are not jeans, so don’t wear them that way, your waist is less than an inch below you belly button. This is where your pants should rest, NOT on your hips. They won’t break correctly, your shirts will look messy, your ties will look too long. There are a number of reasons this is wrong, yet I see it all the time. Modern dressers should remember that the “fall” of dress trousers — the distance from the waist to the crotch — is longer than that of casual jeans, meaning that the pants should be worn higher on the body. Contemporary jeans are often fitted to be worn at the hips.
- Be careful with pleats, they are usually for rail thin models, or severely overweight men trying to hide their gut. You rarely can wear them well. If you’re not sure it’s best to forgo them all together, or to keep them under your jacket, unless you like weird bulges in awkward places.
- Suspenders (braces) are cool, but without a belt. You should try to wear them with trousers that have buttons for them and no belt loops. Have fun with them find some cool colors that you like. If you’re wearing them, don’t let them be boring. Importantly, please match the leather of your braces or belt to your shoes, and even your watch if its leather, it just looks more put together.
- To cuff or not to cuff, many people argue about what is correct, I personally like them on the right pant they add a great impression to the overall look. Trouser cuffs help add a bit of extra weight to the garment, which helps pull them straight at the bottom and keeps them from billowing too much. They can easily look overdone though, especially without a jacket.
- Get the length right a well-fitted cuff or hem should rest against the back of a man’s shoe and drape just on top of the front of the shoe; a slightly pointed “beak” where the bottom of the trouser rests on the shoe is a sign of a good fit.
- If you’re not hanging your pants from the waist, get some good wooden hangers, it will help keep you from ironing the middle of you pant legs, and it’s the only way to hang your jackets.
- This one is for the young men, please do not put on a pair of ill-fitting khaki cargo pants and an un-ironed button down shirt to go and pick up your date for prom. She has probably spent 500 to 1000 dollars on a dress, and if you want any chance for her to take you seriously, not to mention any other girl. You will give her the respect and at least look like you dressed to her level. Remember just because they are Khaki colored does not make them “dressy”
Guys you don’t need to spend a lot of money to look good, just follow a few simple rules whether your thrift store shopping, or picking up your order at Barney’s. Remember these things and you will always look swell.